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Or does this seem like a bad idea? I spent a morning in Rivas in and really enjoyed it. I think it was a Sunday, and the market was on, and hopping. I don't know what days the market is open. I think Rivas will fit the bill of what you are looking for - faded, less touristic. It is very small, though - not a city, by any means.
I stayed 1 night in a hostel that was listed in the Rough Guide, and it turned out to to double as a brothel. Principe something-or-other, it was called. Bizarrely, it served good food. Not a bad idea, at all to spend an afternoon in Rivas. Rivas is certainly worth a little time. Where else can you get a taxi that is horse drawn and not trying to be anything but. Pre-restored , I like that, don't expect any big restoration anytime in the future. Rivas is a city which was really quaint about 15 years ago.
Now it is busy and most joints charge more than they are worth. Thanks for both your replies. Your responses confirmed what I thought I read in the guide books, and we'll definitely make an overnight stop in Rivas. Great photo, paulschmidtart -- hope we can take some good ones ourselves.
Yea, its a 2 horse town. I would stay on Ometepe a extra night personally but do what you gotta do. Thanks to chefhagan and SoloHobo, too, for their seemingly opposing views. We're going to Nicaragua primarily for Ometepe, and indeed we might end up staying there longer than we have initially planned. Still would like to break up the trip back to Liberia, Costa Rica to see something else in that general neck of the woods.